tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post3430494591199652807..comments2024-01-12T21:01:14.309+00:00Comments on Mad Tin Hatter!: Full Thrust: Painting issues (or how I came to love battleship grey)James MacCraggshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10787914402966238993noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-2542134549065600492015-06-02T20:59:34.606+01:002015-06-02T20:59:34.606+01:00I like the left one. Looks more no-nonsense milita...I like the left one. Looks more no-nonsense military to me. Daihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04978439841611727387noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-73842645470206594692015-06-02T14:59:53.401+01:002015-06-02T14:59:53.401+01:00Thanks for the feedback Dave. I've gone with R...Thanks for the feedback Dave. I've gone with Red (as the newer blog pics show) and tried some colours on the nacelles (one each side just to see how each looks). I think the red works well, although I was very dubious about using strong primary colours like that. I guess is fits ok as the colours were largely chosen from WW2 era ships that tended to have red funnels (at least some did in peace time). <br /><br />I may try a lighter base shade on my next one given your comments as well. More a 'sky grey' shade. I'll try lights and such as well, possibly in yellow or white/Ivory. <br />James MacCraggshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10787914402966238993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-97500573318467172015-06-02T14:52:54.498+01:002015-06-02T14:52:54.498+01:00Thanks for the food for thought, I'm going to ...Thanks for the food for thought, I'm going to experiment and see how I get on!James MacCraggshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10787914402966238993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-91887065976896998192015-06-01T22:33:20.624+01:002015-06-01T22:33:20.624+01:00You could use 2 or 3mm brass rod instead of the ac...You could use 2 or 3mm brass rod instead of the acrylic as a handle for painting, then remove it at the end. Just don't use superglue!TamsinPhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11759947520907448060noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-89805903388978105002015-05-31T21:57:57.102+01:002015-05-31T21:57:57.102+01:00I've driven nails through the bases and drille...I've driven nails through the bases and drilled holes in the minis for the nails. Harder to store, but less concern of broken stands. <br /><br />Smaller scales do tend to look darker than what you paint them, so the recomendation is to lighten up the tone (mostly given as advice when trying to colour match historical tanks etc). Some yellow, red, and white dots and lines as lights, power conduit, energy arrays would help I think. <br /><br />The blue is slightly more interesting because there is some colour, but it's a very gleyish blue. I'd suggest you choose a single colour that has some more vibrancy/hue to it, and paint a minor, but noticeable, amount of terrain that colour. <br /><br />One suggestion for these guys might be having the drive housing a colour (like the tan in the lower photos, but with more pigment/brightness). Make the drive in the tan housing a bright white or red or blue? I'd also try and match the main engine at the back of the body to the outrigger engines. <br /><br />All that may need to be decided in relation to how the rest of the ships in the fleet look, but I think the gzg stuff tends to have strongly similarities throughout the ship range of a given faction. davebhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07531919635590898334noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-39825426518128832742015-05-31T21:24:04.701+01:002015-05-31T21:24:04.701+01:00Thanks David. These ships do have holes for flight...Thanks David. These ships do have holes for flight pegs, but they are so prone to snapping they just are not worth it. I have 'flight peg toppers' which was like acrylic donuts that go on the bottom of the models and provide a better hole for the flight peg - and allow the flight peg to be removed for storage of the model in foam. <br /><br />I think the lighter colours on the grey only ship look a bit better and a lot more military. To be honest they are both quite small (although they are by no means the smallest ship, these being Light Cruisers) and both schemes look much of a muchness at a distance. James MacCraggshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10787914402966238993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-88583676242374938952015-05-31T21:17:40.234+01:002015-05-31T21:17:40.234+01:00Thanks Tamsin - I seemed to remember you using som...Thanks Tamsin - I seemed to remember you using some sort of stand to hold your ships upright? I've got the flight peg toppers which I haven't put on yet as the models have been dipped in Fairy Power spray once already and I wasn't sure what that would do to the plastic. I was thinking I may glue them onto the top of paint bottles while I work - I'm not too happy with using the flight pegs while I paint as they have a habit of breaking!James MacCraggshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10787914402966238993noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-73582929738833892562015-05-31T21:06:47.749+01:002015-05-31T21:06:47.749+01:00I think smaller models call for lighter, brighter ...I think smaller models call for lighter, brighter colors. And do the ships have places in the bottom for the flight stands? If so, I'd spray undercoat, then glue in the flight stand and use that to hold while painting.Spiderweb of Historyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02139613680774779747noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4831538814215002565.post-55593153736160623212015-05-31T20:45:33.535+01:002015-05-31T20:45:33.535+01:00I stick mine on clear 3mm acrylic rod (2mm for fri...I stick mine on clear 3mm acrylic rod (2mm for frigates and smaller) while I paint them. <br /><br />I like the green and tan over grey look.TamsinPhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11759947520907448060noreply@blogger.com